Patek Philippe, Golden Ellipse, "Jumbo", ca 1977.

Case size: 33 x 38 mm
Material: 18K gold
Movement: automatic, caliber 28-255C
Year: circa 1977
Crystal: sapphire crystal
Bracelet: integrated original bracelet, total length ca 20 cm
Reference number: 3605/1J
Serial number: 1'300'871
Case number: 2'763'205

Total weight ca 118 grams. The overall impression is good, the watch is in good vintage condition with minor traces of use. The dial shows some marks and signs of ageing.

A simple function check indicated the movement runs; accuracy, power reserve and long-term performance have not been tested and servicing may be required at the buyer’s expense. Pictures of the movement are available upon request. Water resistance cannot be guaranteed and should be checked by a qualified watchmaker before any exposure to water. No right of withdrawal applies to live auction purchases.

Alkuperä - Provenienssi

Consigned by the family to the first owner, with the letter below.

"Folke was a devoted lover of art — the kind of person who genuinely believed that art could lift us out of the sometimes “grey routine” of everyday life and make it a little bigger, a little richer. And he didn’t settle for simply appreciating art — he was always keen to support young, not yet established artists, often with both his time, his engagement, and his money. It was something he truly cared deeply about.

When I was a child, he often took me to art museums. I’ll be honest — at the time, I wasn’t always as enthusiastic. As an eight-year-old, I would much rather have been running around on a football pitch. But something still stayed with me. Those visits opened up a world that I’ve carried with me throughout my life, even if I didn’t fully understand it back then.

So even though I can’t point to a specific anecdote connected to these particular watches, it still feels like something he would have appreciated. Because they carry the same idea: that there is something in what is created, in the aesthetic, that can make us pause — and perhaps even lift our gaze for a moment."

Muut tiedot

The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse occupies a distinctive space in watch design, positioned elegantly between a circle and a rectangle. While outwardly understated, its proportions are guided by the ‘Golden Ratio,’ lending the watch a natural sense of balance and visual harmony.

Introduced in 1968, the Golden Ellipse marked a clear shift away from the conventional case shapes of the time. Its design also eliminated traditional extended lugs, allowing the strap to integrate seamlessly and only subtly break the fluid lines of the case.

Among the various executions, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 3605 stands out for several reasons. Notably, it represents an ‘oversized’ interpretation of the Ellipse, measuring 33 x 38 mm - larger than earlier versions, yet still refined and well within the realm of a classic dress watch. Its proportions and elongated form give it a slightly more contemporary presence on the wrist, making it versatile enough to pair with both formal tailoring and more relaxed attire.

Another key feature of the ref. 3605 is its movement. It was the first Golden Ellipse to be fitted with an automatic caliber, sharing the same ultra-thin movement found in the original Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700. Additionally, it is among the few Ellipse models to include a practical date complication.

Equally noteworthy is the bracelet: a beautifully executed, integrated braided design in 18K yellow gold. This detail elevates the watch beyond a traditional dress piece, giving it the character of a refined piece of jewelry.

This particular example is housed in an 18K yellow gold case with the signature elongated Ellipse silhouette. The dial is rendered in a rich deep blue (referred to by Patek Philippe as cobalt blue) with a sunburst finish. It features applied, pointed 18K gold hour markers and a discreet, gold-framed date aperture at 3 o’clock.

A subtle but interesting detail is the presence of sigma (‘σ’) markings at 6 o’clock. Used by select Swiss manufacturers such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, and IWC during the 1970s and 1980s, these markings indicate the use of gold components on the dial.

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