The Specialist’s Choice – The Market’s Most Sought-After Watches
The Specialist’s Choice
Simon Naeslund
Bukowskis’ internationally acclaimed watch auction, Important Timepieces, is the leading auction in the Nordic region for collectors’ watches and unique vintage examples, with each lot hand-picked and carefully selected by Bukowskis’ watch specialists.
The market for exclusive wristwatches remains strong, with particular focus on brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe. Ahead of the forthcoming season, Bukowskis watch specialist Simon Naeslund highlights a selection of standout pieces from 2025, where established models in the higher price segment are especially prominent.
Patek Philippe, Nautilus, "315-Movement", "Geneva Seal", ca 2007.
Sold for 950 000 SEK
The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711 has, over the past decade, evolved into one of the most sought-after sports watches of modern times. The reference was introduced in 2006 as a further development of the classic Nautilus line from the 1970s, with the iconic ref. 3700. In recent years, the 5711 has attained a unique status as a true contemporary icon, with global interest growing dramatically.
The blue dial of ref. 5711 was discontinued in 2021 (the white dial already in 2020) and replaced by a limited version with a green dial, produced for only one year. At the same time, Patek Philippe introduced the new ref. 5811/1G-001 in white gold, featuring a slightly larger case.
This example belongs to the early series of the Nautilus ref. 5711 and is fitted with calibre 315 SC, a movement that was used in the model for only a relatively short period before Patek Philippe updated the reference with calibre 324 (introduced around mid-2008).
One detail that makes the early 5711 models particularly interesting to collectors is that the movement often bears the Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève), whereas later production instead carries the Patek Philippe Seal. Patek Philippe announced that the Geneva Seal would be gradually replaced by its own quality hallmark from spring 2009 onwards, making “Geneva Seal”–signed 5711s especially sought after.
Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar ref. 2117
Sold for 875 000 SEK
The Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar ref. 2117 is one of the most compelling examples of early independent Swiss watchmaking from the 1990s. The model was created during the formative years of Daniel Roth’s own brand and is the result of a collaboration between Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour, two of the most highly respected watchmakers of their generation.
The ambition was as much technical as it was aesthetic: to develop a perpetual calendar in which all calendar indications change instantaneously at midnight, rather than gradually advancing over several hours. The movement is a refined Lemania 8810, here enhanced with a perpetual calendar construction and finished to an absolutely top-tier standard. Philippe Dufour himself has described the work on the movement as time-consuming: “it took me approximately six or seven months to complete.” The present example was further distinguished by its unusual numbering, with case number 0000 and movement number 0000 “J.T”. After an exciting bidding process with strong international interest, the final price reached 875 000 SEK.
Patek Philippe, Chronograph, "First Year Production", ca 2017
Sold for 850 000 SEK
One of the most sought-after modern chronographs from Patek Philippe – ref. 5170P in platinum, introduced in 2017 as the final version in the legendary 5170 series. The watch combines classic proportions and artisanal craftsmanship with subtle modern elegance, expressed through its deep blue gradient dial and brilliant-cut diamond hour markers.
The platinum case measures 39.4 mm and houses the manually wound in-house calibre CH 29-535 PS, featuring a column wheel and a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. Through the sapphire case back, the exquisitely decorated movement can be admired – a testament to Patek Philippe’s tradition of technical and aesthetic perfection.
Ref. 5170P was produced only for a short period between 2017 and 2019, making the model relatively rare on the market. This particular example dates from the first year of production. Today, the watch is regarded as a future classic and a highlight in Patek Philippe’s chronograph history.
Important Timepieces
Consignments are ongoing for the foremost watch auction in the Nordics
Live auction: April 21, 2026
Arsenalsgatan 2, Stockholm
Read more about what we are looking for
Contact category specialist
