Price incl. VAT when it was released: 2019: 27’600 CHF

Chanel is best known in watchmaking circles for the J12, that unmistakable all-ceramic design now in its more refined second generation. Yet, from both a technical and aesthetic standpoint, the Monsieur de Chanel arguably stands out as the brand’s most compelling creation. Initially introduced in precious metals, the model was later reimagined as the Monsieur Édition Noire, executed entirely in matte black ceramic with a distinctly modern edge.

Featuring a jumping hour complication paired with retrograde minutes, the Édition Noire is driven by the in-house Calibre 1, an integrated movement developed with the involvement of independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier. Beyond the mechanics, however, it is the watch’s design that truly distinguishes it. Every element feels considered, from the overall layout to the custom typeface created specifically for the dial, reflecting the meticulous design language one would expect from a leading Parisian fashion house.

In fact, the coherence and attention to detail arguably surpass that of many traditional watchmakers. Chanel, like several luxury fashion houses, has made a concerted effort in recent decades to establish itself as a serious player in horology, focusing on both craftsmanship and mechanical credibility. A notable step in that direction came with its acquisition of a 20% stake in movement manufacturer Kenissi, alongside Tudor, which now supplies calibres for the updated J12 models.

This move is part of a broader, long-term strategy. As early as 1993, Chanel acquired G&F Chatelain, a specialist in cases and bracelets, which has since grown into one of the largest operations of its kind, with its La Chaux-de-Fonds facility serving as the hub of Chanel’s watchmaking activities. In 1998, the brand also took a stake in Bell & Ross, later expanding it to a controlling interest. More recently, Chanel’s owners, Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, invested in F.P. Journe through their family office, Mousse Partners.

Perhaps most crucial to the development of the Monsieur de Chanel and its Calibre 1 was Chanel’s earlier investment in Romain Gauthier in 2011. While Gauthier is best known for producing highly refined, low-volume watches under his own name (often fewer than 100 pieces annually) his technical expertise played a significant role in shaping one of Chanel’s most distinctive timepieces.