Cartier, Santos-Dumont, "Extra Plate", "Paris", "96054", ca 1997.

A testament to both functionality and refined aesthetics of contemporary times, the Santos Dumont embodies the epitome of a pilot's watch in its most elegant form. The inclusion of 'Dumont' in its name holds significance, a deliberate nod by Cartier to Louis Cartier's aviator companion who, in 1904, required a wristwatch instead of the traditional pocket watch. Reflecting back to its original design, the Santos Dumont maintains a closer resemblance to its roots, complete with integrated bracelet and a modestly sized case. Noteworthy are the bezel screws, paying homage to the construction style of the iconic Eiffel Tower. The dimensions of the timepiece evoke nostalgia, boasting a compact 27 x 27 (36) mm case, with a slim profile of merely 4.5 mm, courtesy of the Frédéric Piguet calibre 21. Marketed as 'Extra Flat', it stands 2 mm thinner than its standard counterpart, a distinction that underscored its appeal. The enduring presence of the calibre 21 in numerous Cartier creations over the years underscores its significance as the thinnest hand-wound movement for 21 years. Remarkably, during the CPCP era, its core remained largely unchanged, albeit with a new appellation bestowed by Cartier. The Santos Dumont "96054", known colloquially as the Extra Plate or Ultra Thin, laid the foundation for the revered ref. 1576, solidifying its status as one of Cartier's most coveted models sought after by collectors.