The specialist's choice – Carl Palmegren lists favourites among watches
Specialist’s choice
Carl Palmegren
We have spoken to Carl Palmegren, Head Specialist Watches, who told us about the selection at this season's Important Timepieces.
– We are proud to present an auction with many highlights. There are top items from Rolex, Longines, Breitling, Ulysse Nordin, and more in the vintage watches category. The department with modern wristwatches is also exceptional with, among others, Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph reference 5980 in rose gold as the season's top item. Finally, we can present fantastic pocket watches from Halda, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin.
Catalogue number 26: Breitling, Navitimer, chronograph, "AOPA, All Black Dial", ca 1956
The iconic Navitimer model from Breitling was introduced in the early 1950s. The model was developed in collaboration with the US Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) for working pilots. It became the organization's official watch, and its emblem adorned the dial during the first years of production. The watch became popular among non-pilots and was worn in the 1960s by celebrities like Miles Davis, Jim Clark, Graham Hill, and Jo Siffert.
The earliest models have a black dial and a so-called beaded bezel and caliber Valjoux 72. The watch at this auction is a transition model from the first generation; the all-black radium dial and beaded bezel remain but the movement has been updated to Venus 178. Furthermore, the movement is signed "BOW" for the Breitling Watch Corporation of America. In 1957 the signature changed to the more well-known "WOG," the American Import Stamp for the Breitling Wakmann Watch Co. Thus, this is a very rare configuration of a Breitling Navitimer.
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Catalogue number 77: Longines, "Lindbergh, Hour Angle, Navigator", "Oversized"
The model Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle was developed in the early 1930s in collaboration with Charles Lindbergh, who had carried out the first solo flight non-stop across the Atlantic a few years earlier. When Longines launched the model in 1932, the watch made it possible for pilots to locate geographically based on the clock's longitude reading. The watch measures a total of 47.5 mm in diameter and has an oversized crown, which made it easier for pilots to manoeuvre the watch even when wearing gloves during flights. This rarity is in excellent condition, and it comes with documents from Longines archive, which confirms that the watch was made in 1948.
To the watch
Catalogue number 42: Rolex, Submariner, "Underline, Meters first, Gilt Dial", ca 1964
Catalogue number 66: Sjöö Sandström, Royal Steel, Worldtimer, "SÄPO / Swedish Security Service", ca 2019.
Sjöö Sandström is a Swedish watch manufacturer founded in 1986 by Christer Sjöö and Mikael Sandström. Auction number 66 is a very unusual model developed for SÄPO Security Police. SÄPO works to prevent crimes against Sweden's security, fight terrorism and protect the government. The model is developed for people working at SÄPO and has not been on sale publically before. The case is engraved with "Swedish Security Service" and "SS-1841-SÄPO".
Catalogue number 119: Patek Philippe, Aquanaut, "315-Movement", ca 2007.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut was launched in 1997 with a design inspired by the classic Nautilus. Ten years later, the updated reference 5165A was introduced. There are many similarities with the current 5167A. Still, one noticeable difference is the model's smaller size of 38 mm. 5165A was only manufactured for a few years and is highly demanded among collectors today. Most of the 5165A has calibre 324, but for a short period, the watch was made with calibre 315, a movement used in the previous reference by Aquanaut, 5065A "Jumbo".
