Modern Art & Design presents Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe
Iconic jewellery by Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe with provenance Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss at Modern Art & Design
This spring's Modern Art & Design auction presents an impressive collection of jewellery by the legendary Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, featuring particularly notable pieces previously owned by Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss. Both women were pioneering figures in their respective creative fields, each leaving an indelible mark on Swedish art and design. Their works continue to inspire with their unique artistic expressions and innovative spirit.
Bülow-Hübe’s jewellery reflects a strong drive and uncompromising vision, and her timeless designs remain as relevant today as when they were created. Bülow-Hübe redefined the art of jewellery with her minimalist aesthetic, while Palmstierna-Weiss, with her artistry in ceramics and stage design, offers a historical context to Bülow-Hübe's early pieces in this collection.
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe
Torun Bülow-Hübe was born into an artistic family in Malmö and grew up in a creative environment. Her early jewellery was characterised by simplicity and expressiveness, inspired by African forms and made from materials such as rattan, brass, and leather. In her home workshop in Stockholm, she crafted her first pieces, often while her daughter Pia played in Humlegården park. Her artistic talent was soon recognised by Estrid Ericson, who sold her jewellery at Svenskt Tenn, a turning point in Bülow-Hübe’s career.
After moving to Paris in 1948, Torun Bülow-Hübe found herself at the heart of the international art scene, forming friendships with icons like Braque, Brancusi, and Matisse. Here, she developed her style and achieved international recognition. Bülow-Hübe’s jewellery, often adorned with natural materials like beach stones from Biot, became symbols of her aesthetic—minimalistic but imbued with a powerful and sensual presence that drew widespread attention.
Her collaboration with Georg Jensen, beginning in 1968, cemented her place in design history. With her iconic mirror-faced watch, she became the first female jewellery designer at Georg Jensen, a breakthrough that further established her reputation. Bülow-Hübe’s philanthropic work in Indonesia during the 1970s also demonstrates her deep commitment to giving back to society.
Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss
Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss (1928–2022), and Torun Bülow-Hübe became acquainted while both were studying at the University College of Arts, Crafts and Design (Konstfack) in Stockholm in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Today, Palmstierna-Weiss is best known for her contributions to the world of theatre. She worked as both a set and costume designer, internationally as well as in Sweden—often in collaboration with her husband, the writer and artist Peter Weiss, but also on several occasions with Ingmar Bergman.
During her time at Konstfack, Palmstierna-Weiss studied ceramics among other subjects, and later ran her own ceramics workshop in the mid-1950s. While still students, she and Bülow-Hübe created silver necklaces featuring stoneware elements designed by Palmstierna-Weiss. In the mid-1950s, they held a joint exhibition in Paris at Galerie du Siècle, a gallery that played a significant role in Bülow-Hübe’s career. Palmstierna-Weiss and Bülow-Hübe remained close friends throughout their lives.
The jewellery will be sold at Modern Art & Design
Viewing: May 14–19, Berzelii Park 1, Stockholm
Open May 14 12 AM–6 PM, weekdays 11 AM–6 PM, weekends 11 AM–4 PM
Live auction: May 20–21, Arsenalsgatan 2, Stockholm