The specialist's choice – Carl Palmegren lists exclusive watches

This year's anniversary auction, Important Timepieces, contains an exciting mix of vintage watches, modern classics and collectables from the most sought-after watchmakers.

At the department for watches in this autumn's anniversary auction Important Timepieces we present an exclusive selection that includes a total of 85 watches. It consists of several rare and sought-after collectables with an exciting history with estimates from 5,000 SEK up to 700,000 SEK.

We have spoken to Carl Palmegren, Head Specialist Watches, about a few highlights leading up to the auction on November 10th.

18. Universal Genève, Polarouter, "SAS Dial", "Ludvig "Ludde" Lindgren".

First off is 'Universal Genève, Polarouter, (SAS Dial)',

One of many highlights in this auction is the unusual and in-demand Universal Geneva Polarouter' SAS Dial'. This historically important watch was produced to a few of the crew on the first flights SAS carried out between Copenhagen and Los Angeles, the first flight to go via the North Pole, a route which SAS named 'SAS Polar Route'.

The assignment to design the wristwatch was given to a then relatively unknown watch designer named Gérald Genta, who later in life designed both Audemars Piquet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. The first watches in this future classic from Universal Geneva bear the SAS emblem on the dial and the text Polarouter.

These watches rarely appear at auction and the international interest is usually very significant for this watch with the Swedish connection. What further distinguishes the auction's Polarouter is that its full provenance is intact — submitted by the family to SAS pilot Ludvig "Ludde" Lindgren. Ludvig began his career as a fighter pilot, and after World War II he began flying for ABA, which in the late 1940s was part of the formation of SAS. Furthermore, the watch is in a fine condition with original features and a beautifully patinated dial.

To the watch

61. Omega, Speedmaster, chronograph, "Tachymètre - Base 1000", "Tropical Dial".

Catalogue number 61. is an Omega, Speedmaster, chronograph, 'Tachymeter - Base 1000', 'Tropical Dial'.

The iconic 'moon clock', was launched in 1957 with reference 2915 and was shortly followed by reference 2998 which was in production for four years, 1959-1962. During these four years, an estimated 8,000 watches were produced in eight different estate references 2998 (-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -61, and -62).

2998 is also the first reference of the Speedmaster to be in space when Walter 'Wally' Schirra wore the watch during his journey in 1962.

This piece has a fantastic dial that over time has been given a brown shade, 'Tropical Dial'. Furthermore, it comes with the contemporary 'Tachymètre - Base 1000' and Alpha hands.

To the watch

37. Rolex, Cosmograph, Daytona, chronograph, "Cherry Red", "Units per hour 300” .

Next off is the Rolex, Cosmograph, Daytona in "Cherry Red" which might be recognised as one of the world´s most renowned model with the original reference number 6239. The primary watch of this model was launched in 1963, yet without the text, Daytona printed in the dial. It was only a few years later Daytona printed in the dial, became a significant characteristic of the model. This unusual watch varies from other watches of the same model since Daytona is printed in red, at the lower part of the dial. This is normally only recognised in dials of “Paul Newman” during the same time period.
The design represents the characteristics of the model and appears in recently produced Cosmograph. Only the first generations of Daytona holds the original tachymeter scale “Units per hour 300” which makes this watch very unique and interesting.

To the watch

68. Rolex, Date. "Cornelis Vreeswijk"

This auction offers a great selection of women’s watches, including a Rolex, Date. Furthermore, this classical model possesses a unique provenance. The watch was once, Cornelis Vreeswijks wedding gift to his wife Anita Starndell in 1979. The stunning watch is composed of steel and white gold, it includes a box and a certificate, and appears in excellent condition.

To the watch

*59. Rolex, Cosmograph Daytona, chronograph *

This watch has the highest starting price at this autumns auction, with a starting price of 500 000-700 000 SEK. The Rolex is an anniversary model for the Cosmograph Daytona with a reference number of 116506 that was launched in 2013. This was the first reference that was produced in platinum. A modern classic with a light blue dial and dark brown ceramic bezel. The watch was originally sold in Sweden in 2018 and comes with the original box and a certificate.

To the watch

22 and 33 Patek Philippe, Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Nautilus was initially launched in 1976 with the reference number 3700. The model is designed by Gérald Genta and is one of the world´s most endeavoured model. In 2006, in honour of the 30th anniversary of the watch, two models with the references 5711 and 5712 were introduced by the company. 5711 was presented as a modern and updated version of the original model with the number of reference 3700 while 5712 obtained to be a more technically advanced watch that endures dates, moon phase and a power reserve generator.

Catalogue number 33 is a Nautilus 5711 composed of steel with an integrated original bracelet in excellent condition. The watch attains the original box and certificate dated from 2015. Catalogue number 22 is another unusual and desirable model, composed of white gold with the number of reference 5712. The watch comes with a box and certificate dated from 2012. These two watches with these unique reference numbers are both included in Patek Philippe collections. Yet, these watches belong to the Patek Philippes most desirable models and there are extended waiting times in order to purchase one of these extraordinary watches.

To 33. Patek Philippe, Nautilus

To 22. Patek Philippe, Nautilus

25, 83 and 66 Rolex GMT-Master, Rolex Submariner and Rolex Explorer II

The Rolex watches with the reference number 1675 GMT-Master, 1680 Submariner and 1655 Explorer II represents the classics within sports watches. The unique model GMT-Master was developed in collaboration with the airline PanAm to oversee several timezones simultaneously. Additionally, the Submariner is the iconic diving watch and Explorer II is known for its great usage in outdoor events such as diving and cave exploration.

The catalogue number 25, 1775 GMT-Master originates from the original owner and includes all the additional accessories preserved since the purchase in 1977 including the receipt.

The catalogue number 83, the 1680 Submariner originates from the first owner and holds a certificate dated February 1972, including several accessories.

The catalogue number 66, with the reference number 1655 Rolex Explorer II include a certificate dated 1984 and has not been of use the previous thirty years, presented in an exceptionally excellent condition.

To Rolex GMT Master

To Rolex Submariner 1680

To Rolex Explorer 1655

When is the viewing and auction?

Viewing: 5 – 9 November, Berzelii Park 1, Stockholm.
Open: Mon–Fri 11 AM – 6 PM, Sat-Sun 11 AM –5 PM.

Auction: 10 November, starts at 7 pm, Arsenalsgatan 2, Stockholm.

Contact our specialists

Björn Extergren
Björn Extergren
Head of Consignment & Sales Department, Fineart. Specialist Antique Furniture, Decorative Arts and Asian Ceramics
+46 (0)706 40 28 61
Carl  Palmegren
Carl Palmegren
Head Specialist Watches
+46 (0)739 40 08 23
Johanna Graflund
Johanna Graflund
Appraiser, assisting specialist watches
+46(0)704 55 71 04