Important Timepieces – Highlights from Bukowskis' watch auction
Important Timepieces
– The leading watch auction in the Nordics
Bukowskis' internationally renowned watch auction, Important Timepieces, is back. The catalogue features a remarkable selection of wristwatches and pocket watches from the world's most prominent manufacturers, including Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Welcome to discover selected highlights from this season's auction.
When is the viewing and auction?
Viewing: April 19 – 23, Berzelii Park 1, Stockholm
Open: weekdays 11 am – 6 pm CEST, weekends 11 am – 4 pm CEST
Live auction: April 24, 5 pm CEST, Arsenalsgatan 2, Stockholm
Patek Philippe Genève, Calatrava, ca 1954
The classic Patek Philippe reference 2509 was produced from 1950 until the late 1960s. The cases were manufactured by the renowned case maker François Borgel (Taubert Frères). This watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from The Archives confirming its production year as 1954.
Tudor Submariner, “MK5 Dial”, ca 1967
In 1954, the Tudor Submariner made its debut alongside its renowned counterpart, the Rolex Submariner, in the rapidly expanding dive watch market. Crafted with a case and bracelet by Rolex, the Tudor Submariner swiftly gained favor among divers and adventurers alike, bolstering its credibility. Throughout its history, numerous experiments were undertaken to pinpoint the essential traits of the perfect diver’s timepiece. Each iteration within the 7900 series bore unique nuances that, whether preserved or not in subsequent models, contributed to its enduring legacy. It was with the introduction of the latest variation, the reference 7928 distinguished by its rounded crown guards - the first Tudor Submariner with crown guards.
As 2024 unfolds, whispers of the Tudor Submariner’s potential comeback coincide with the model’s 70th anniversary.
Rolex, Sea-Dweller “Double Red Mark IV”, ca 1975
Rolex 1665 is the original reference of the Rolex Sea-Dwell- er. When the model was introduced, it was the ultimate div- er’s watch, enabling divers to use the watch at greater depths thanks to a specially developed helium escape valve. During the initial production years of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, the dial featured the text ‘Sea-Dweller’ and ‘Submariner 2000’ writ- ten in red, hence these models have been given the nick- name ‘Double Red’.
Cartier Santos-Dumont, “Extra Plate”, “Paris”,“96054”, ca 1997
A testament to both functionality and refined aesthetics of contemporary times, the Santos Dumont embodies the epit- ome of a pilot’s watch in its most elegant form. The inclusion of ‘Dumont’ in its name holds significance, a deliberate nod by Cartier to Louis Cartier’s aviator companion who, in 1904, required a wristwatch instead of the traditional pocket watch. Reflecting back to its original design, the Santos Dumont maintains a closer resemblance to its roots, complete with integrated bracelet and a modestly sized case. Noteworthy are the bezel screws, paying homage to the construction style of the iconic Eiffel Tower. The dimensions of the time- piece evoke nostalgia, boasting a compact 27 x 27 (36) mm case, with a slim profile of merely 4.5mm, courtesy of the Frédéric Piguet calibre 21. Marketed as ‘Extra Flat’, it stands 2mm thinner than its standard counterpart, a distinction that underscored its appeal. The enduring presence of the cali- bre 21 in numerous Cartier creations over the years under- scores its significance as the thinnest hand-wound move- ment for 21 years. Remarkably, during the CPCP era, its core remained largely unchanged, albeit with a new appellation bestowed by Cartier. The Santos Dumont “96054”, known colloquially as the Extra Plate or Ultra Thin, laid the founda- tion for the revered ref. 1576, solidifying its status as one of Cartier’s most coveted models sought after by collectors.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time, ca 2019
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk collection, unveiled in 2009, is a remarkable testament to horological innovation. It distinguishes itself with a captivating digital hour and minute dis- play, evoking the essence of a mechanical interpretation of a digital clock. The inception of the Zeitwerk collection draws its inspiration from a historical “digital clock” housed within the Dresden Semper Opera House.
In an unexpected and daring move, A. Lange & Söhne ventured into the realm of musical watches with the Zeitwerk. The Zeitwerk Striking Time, exemplified by Reference 145.032, serves as a remarkable embodiment of this audacious exploration. It boasts a melodious chiming mechanism that springs to life every 15 minutes, assuming the role of a “quarter-striker”. This enchanting feature can be easily toggled on or off, granting the wearer the privilege of savoring the auditory delight at their discretion. Notably, the Zeitwerk Striking Time stakes its claim as the world’s premiere mechanical watch, combining a jumping numerals display with a visible chiming mechanism. In doing so, A. Lange & Söhne once again push the boundaries of horological craftsmanship and artistry.
American Waltham Watch Co “President of the United States To Captain Hans Dahlberg”, ca1867
American presidents, often upon recommendation from the Secretary of State, formally acknowledged foreigners who showed extraordinary courage by rescuing Americans at sea. The recognition typically took the form of a finely en- graved gold pocket watch, symbolizing the nation’s grati- tude. These watches, often featuring the Seal of the President of the United States, were personalized with the recipient’s name and the reason for the award. The tradition of present- ing these pocket watches began with Abraham Lincoln and continued until the end of the 19th century. In 1867, American President Andrew Johnson awarded this pocket watch to Captain Hans Dahlberg.
Bovet Virtuoso VII, “Retrograde Perpetual Calendar”, “Convertible”, ca 2019
The seamless fusion of technical mastery and the skilled artistry of BOVET’s craftsmen defines the exquisite expertise embodied in their timepieces. Every element, whether conspicuous or concealed, bears the hallmark of traditional artisanal techniques. The intricate hand-engraving of the plate and bridges, revealing the perpetual calendar functions, showcases the iconic Fleurisanne pattern.
The Virtuoso VII, a testament to Bovet’s unwavering commitment to innovation, houses their proprietary in-house perpetual calendar complication within an intuitively designed package — the patented Amadeo convertible case. On one side of this exceptional timepiece, the perpetual calendar is elegantly displayed, featuring the day of the week, retrograde date, month, and leap year cycle on sapphire crystal disks. On the flip side, an off-centered hour/minute dial offers a captivating view of the manufacture movement, in-house hairspring, and regulating organ.
Bovet’s patent extends to the reverse-fit hands, ensuring that time progresses clockwise on both sides. With its versatility, the Virtuoso VII transcends the ordinary, serving as four distinct timepieces in one. Wearable on either side, it effortlessly transforms into a table clock or a pocket watch, all achieved without the need for any tools.
Vacheron Constantin “First Tourbillon”, ca 1994
With the popular arising of neo-vintage we are sure that this rarely-seen timepiece is something that will interest even the most seasoned collector.
In the late 1980s, Vacheron Constantin initiated two projects aimed at creating innovative calibers for wristwatches featuring the renowned complications of a tourbillon and a minute repeater. The first piece, the ref. 30050, was introduced in 1992 in a limited edition of 300 in yellow gold and platinum, marking their first venture into wristwatch tourbillons. Crafted in yellow gold and adorned with a power reserve indicator, this rare tourbillon timepiece boasts a meticulously symmetrical architecture, evident in its dial, rendering it a sophisticated and highly coveted work of art in the realm of fine watch-making. The watch’s exceptional quality extends to its meticulous finishes, including Côtes de Genève, perlage, polishing, and beveling. If you look closer you will see the Malese Cross in the tourbillon. According to insights from Carole Lambelet and Lorette Coen’s book, “The World of Vacheron Constantin,” the caliber 1760 movement within this watch was collaboratively developed with Nouvelle Lémania.
To our knowledge, only a handful of other pieces in yellow gold have surfaced at international auctions thus far.
Rolex Day-Date “SCOC Dial” “Second Gen”
For many collectors, reference 6200 is considered the “holy grail” of Submariner collecting and is also referred to as the “King Sub”. All watches that have appeared on the market have serial numbers between 31,9xx and 32,2xx. Therefore, the total production of the 6200 is estimated to be around 300 pieces, of which only a small number have surfaced on the secondary market. The model 6200 has distinctive features that make it particularly interesting. It was the first model to have what is known as a “Big Crown,” referring to the 8 mm “Brevet” crown. Additionally, the 6200 was the first model to feature a dial with a so-called “3-6-9” or “Explorer” layout.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Réveil, ca 2007
Presenting a stunning 18K rose gold watch that showcases a perpetual calendar, moonphase indicator, and an inte- grated mechanical alarm. This timepiece offers versatility with the alarm function, which can either ring audibly or vibrate discreetly, controlled by a switch located on the left edge of the watch. Its short serial number has been confirmed by Jaeger-Lecoultre.
For requests & condition reports Contact our category specialists
Stockholm
Björn Extergren
Head of Consignment and Sales Department, Fine Art. Specialist Antique Furniture, Decorative Arts and Asian Ceramics
+46 (0)706 40 28 61
